Seed Starting, Motherhood, and Letting Go of Perfect

There’s a reel I published today that shows exactly what seed starting looks like in this season of my life: adapting, experimenting, and starting seeds with a baby in a diaper nearby.

It captures not just how I’m starting seeds right now — but why it looks different.

Last year, I intentionally trialed a new seed-starting method. Not because what I was doing before was broken, but because I’m always learning, adjusting, and experimenting to find what works best — for my plants and for my life. Gardening, just like motherhood, has a way of teaching you that flexibility and curiosity matter more than rigid rules.

And if I’m being completely honest?
That reel is more real than anything I could have staged.

I’m starting seeds slower now. I’m doing it in pockets of time — during nap time, on my dining room table, with an old tote instead of a pristine workspace. At one point in the reel I say:

“You don’t need fancy things to start seeds.”

And I meant every word.

Motherhood has been — hands down — the hardest, most rewarding, most fulfilling transition of my life. It’s also the season where I’ve lost a lot of control… in a good way.

I don’t have nearly as much time as I used to. I can’t force productivity. And that constant need for things to be precise and perfect?


I’ve let a lot of that go — and the peace that’s come with it has been incredible.

If it gets done, it gets done.

If all I had the space and capacity for that day was a shower, snuggles, and coloring with my toddler? Then I am the true winner.

You Don’t Need Perfect — You Just Need to Start

I used to think I needed all the things.
The best supplies.
The perfect setup.
The ideal workspace.

Then you throw a kid in the mix… and you learn real quick what you can and can’t do with a baby on your hip.

You hear it all the time, but it’s true:
As an entrepreneur and a corporate employee, it’s never going to be perfect to start. You’ll never have all the ducks in a row.

So if you’re waiting for that moment?
You’ll wait forever.

Will you fail?
Yes. A thousand times over.

I’ve killed more seedlings than I can count.

But what matters most?
You don’t quit.

So with all of that in mind — let’s talk seed starting.


Seed Starting 101: From Real Life, Not Perfection

Have I invested in high-quality tools over the years? Yes.
Am I picky about what I use now? Also yes.
Am I still experimenting, testing, improving, and learning every single season? Absolutely.

But I didn’t start there.

I started with:

  • A bag of Pro-Mix from Menards

  • A vegetable steamer strainer to sift an entire 3-cubic-yard bag of soil

  • Solo cups, with holes drilled in the bottom by my husband

  • A whole lot of trial, error, and learning

You can start inexpensively.
You can start expensively.
That choice is yours.

The most important choice?
Just do it.

Growing your own garden — even just a veggie or two, or a small bed of flowers — is incredibly rewarding. And like any skill, there is some investment involved in learning how to start seeds indoors successfully.

Let’s break it down from start to finish.

1. Grow Lights (Lumens Matter)

Light is non-negotiable when starting seeds indoors.

Without enough light, seedlings stretch, weaken, and fall over.

What to look for:

  • Lumens: Aim for at least 2,000–5,000 lumens per shelf

  • Color temperature: Full spectrum or daylight (5000–6500K)

  • Distance: Lights should sit 1–3 inches above seedlings

Adjustability is key — your lights need to move with your plants as they grow.

➡️ I link the grow lights I use here.

2. Shelving or Racks

You don’t need a greenhouse. You don’t need fancy.

I’ve used:

  • Old shelving units

  • Garage racks

  • Dining room corners

What matters most:

  • Stability

  • Enough vertical space

  • The ability to raise and lower your lights

➡️ My current rack setup fits 3 Bootstrap Farmer trays per shelf, with 4 usable shelves, for a total of 12 trays per rack. We also have a couple on wheels which I love.

3. Containers: Cups, Trays, Soil Blocks & Air Prune Propagation Trays

There are a lot of container options out there — and yes, you can find cheaper trays on Amazon.

I’ve tried them.

For me, constantly replacing cracked or warped trays every single year became more frustrating (and more expensive in the long run) than helpful. Over time, I chose to start investing in what I’ve found to be the best trays on the market — products that hold up season after season and support healthy root development.

That’s how we landed on Bootstrap Farmer trays and containers. They’ve become the backbone of our seed-starting setup, and we use the heck out of them.

That said, you do not need everything at once. Start where you are, and build as you go.

How We Use Bootstrap Farmer Products

  • 1020 Seed Starting Trays
    These are the workhorses of our system. We use them for:

    • Holding Air Prune Propagation Trays

    • Soil blocking

    • Catch trays for individual nursery pots

  • 1020 Mesh Deep Trays (Soil Blocking)
    When soil blocking, we pair the 1020 trays with their mesh deep trays to allow proper airflow and drainage.

  • Individual Nursery Pots
    These are what we use for crops that need more root space early on:

    • Tomatoes

    • Cucumbers

    • Peppers

    • And similar transplants

  • Cell Trays, Domes & Starter Pots
    We use these for:

    • Starting our own plugs

    • Pre-starting dahlia tubers

    • Crops that benefit from a more contained, protected start

Their products are 1000% worth the investment if you plan to start seeds year after year.

If you’re just trialing seed starting or want a budget-friendly way to begin, this Amazon starter kit is a great option:
👉 https://amzn.to/4q5Z2Ck

Other Container Methods I’ve Used

  • Solo cups

  • Traditional seed trays

  • Soil blocks

  • Air Prune Propagation Trays (a method I experimented with last year)

Each has its place — and every one of them can grow healthy plants.

A Quick Transparency Note

Just to be completely clear — I’m not affiliated with Bootstrap Farmer. I don’t get paid to recommend their products (though that would be pretty awesome someday).

I share them simply because we genuinely love their products and use them constantly in our seed-starting setup.


Soil Blocking (An Investment That’s Been Worth It)

Soil blocking is another method we use regularly, and it’s one that does require a bit more intention — both in learning and in tools.

Soil blocks eliminate plastic containers altogether by forming compact cubes of soil that encourage strong, air-pruned root systems. When done well, they transplant beautifully and reduce shock.

Over time, we’ve chosen to invest in Swiftblocker, and it’s been completely worth it. Their tools are thoughtfully designed, durable, and have made soil blocking far more efficient and consistent for us. As we continue to grow and refine our process, we’re slowly building our inventory with their products.

👉 Swiftblocker tools:
https://www.swiftblocker.com/shopswiftblocker

That said — this is another area where you absolutely don’t have to start with top-of-the-line tools.

When we first began soil blocking, we used much more basic options while learning the process:

Those tools worked just fine for learning soil consistency, pressure, and technique.

Like most things in gardening, soil blocking can be done:

  • Inexpensively while you’re learning

  • Or with higher-quality tools once you know it’s a method you’ll stick with

Both approaches are valid — and both can grow healthy plants.

Soil blocking is one of those methods that rewards patience and practice — and like everything else in this season of life, I’ve learned to let it be imperfect while I learn.

Air Prune Propagation Trays (What I Experimented With)

Last year, I experimented with Air Prune Propagation Trays, and they’ve become a really valuable tool in my setup.

These trays work by allowing air to naturally prune roots. When roots reach the edges of the cell and hit air, they stop growing and branch out instead — creating a dense, healthy root system.

Why I Like Them:

  • Strong root development

  • Less transplant shock

  • Durable and reusable

  • More forgiving than soil blocking on busy days

I still love soil blocking — and I still use it.
But in this season of motherhood, air prune trays offer efficiency and consistency when I don’t have the margin for perfection.

➡️ I link my exact Bootstrap Farmer Air Prune Propagation Trays here.


4. Soil: The Foundation of Everything

Soil is one place I no longer cut corners — because everything starts here.

When you’re starting seeds indoors, soil needs to be fine, light, and consistent so delicate seedlings can easily push through the surface. Heavy or chunky mixes can prevent germination, restrict root development, and make moisture harder to manage.

A good seed-starting mix should:

  • Hold moisture without becoming soggy

  • Allow airflow to roots

  • Be fine enough for tiny seedlings to emerge easily

My Go-To Seed Starting Mix

Morgan Composting — Dairy Doo Seed Starting Mix
Hands down the best seed-starting mix I’ve ever used.

It’s only available through Michigan suppliers — we purchase ours from Sunshine Products of Dansville, a local small business that carries Morgan Composting’s Dairy Doo line. The good news is, they do ship throughout the U.S.

This mix is consistently fine, well-balanced, and easy to work with whether you’re soil blocking, using trays, or starting seeds in individual pots.

How I Amend It

I also amend my seed-starting mix with:

This simple addition helps improve moisture retention and adds gentle, slow-release nutrients — especially helpful during early growth.

Why This Combination Works

Together, this mix creates:

  • Excellent moisture retention

  • Proper airflow for healthy roots

  • Balanced nutrition without overwhelming young seedlings

Soil Consistency Tip

No matter what mix you use, consistency matters.

Your soil should feel like a wrung-out sponge — moist enough to hold together, but not dripping wet. This is especially important for soil blocking, where moisture level can make or break the process.

➡️ Here is a great seed starting mix alternative. Or this one!


5. Planting & Watering

  • Bottom water whenever possible

  • Keep soil moist, not soaked

  • Use humidity domes only until germination

  • Remove domes as soon as seedlings emerge

Airflow is essential — stagnant air leads to disease.

The Watering Tool That Changed Everything for Me

This is one of those tools I didn’t realize I needed until I used it — and now I genuinely wouldn’t want to seed start without it.

I swear by an electric automatic spray mister, and it has saved me so much hassle over the years.

When you’re starting seeds — especially in soil blocks, air prune propagation trays, or shallow cells — gentle watering matters. A harsh stream of water can displace seeds, compact soil, or damage tiny seedlings.

This mister gives:

  • A consistent, fine mist

  • Even moisture without disturbing soil

  • One-handed operation (which matters when you’re juggling a baby)

It’s rechargeable, lightweight, and takes the guesswork out of hand watering. No pumping. No wrist fatigue. No accidentally blasting seedlings across the tray.

On busy days — which is most days in this season of life — this tool lets me water quickly, gently, and move on.

➡️ I link the exact electric spray mister I use here.


6. Heat Mats (Do You Need Them?)

Heat mats aren’t required for every seed — but for certain crops, they can make a huge difference.

Heat mats help maintain a consistent soil temperature, which speeds up germination and improves overall success rates, especially for heat-loving plants. They warm the soil, not the air, creating the ideal environment for seeds to sprout evenly.

I Recommend Heat Mats For:

  • Tomatoes

  • Peppers

  • Eggplant

  • Basil

  • Celosia (especially important for consistent germination)

  • Dahlias and other tubers

Cool-season crops like lettuce, spinach, and brassicas typically don’t need bottom heat and will germinate just fine without it.

How I Use Heat Mats

  • I place heat mats under trays only until seeds germinate

  • Once seedlings emerge, trays come off the heat

  • If possible, I use a thermostat to avoid overheating

  • Heat mats work best when paired with proper lighting and airflow

Used correctly, heat mats can dramatically reduce germination time and help create more uniform seedlings — which means less frustration and fewer do-overs.

Heat mats are one of those tools that aren’t essential for everything, but when you need them, they’re absolutely worth having.

➡️ I link the heat mats and heat mats with thermostat I use here.


7. Daily Maintenance

This doesn’t have to be complicated.

Each day:

  • Check moisture

  • Adjust lights

  • Observe growth

Some days you’ll do it perfectly.
Some days you’ll forget.

Plants are more resilient than we give them credit for.


8. Hardening Off

Before planting outdoors:

  • Start with 30–60 minutes outside

  • Gradually increase exposure

  • Protect from wind and harsh sun

Skipping this step often leads to setbacks — take the time.


9. Accessories That Make Life Easier

These aren’t required, but they help:


Final Thoughts

You don’t need the perfect setup.
You don’t need endless time.
You don’t need to get it right the first time.

You will fail.
You will learn.
You will grow.

And one day, you’ll look back at seeds started on a dining room table during nap time — and realize that was never a limitation.

It was the beginning 🌱

Thank you for being here!

Continuously growing,

Alex

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